Best top rope solo devices. But the El Mudo is there for some climbe.

Best top rope solo devices The Kong duck and 802 seem better. It depends on a few things IMO. What is rope soloing? Free soloing is the truest expression of a climber’s freedom, cruising up the rock, alone and unnumbered by safety gadgets. Jan 20, 2017 · I'm looking for the best gear to solo top rope. weighmyrack. The only other thing you can consider is using a dogbone on your primary device so that its extended and a bit further removed from your secondary device. . Feb 27, 2023 · Your setup eliminates most of the fun. Covered are some tips when looking at sending a new line when going on a Jun 9, 2015 · 8. I had the Mini Traxion on a Petzl OK oval carabiner. Jun 10, 2024 · The pass-through loop specifically couldn’t be easier to use with any device of your preference, and really speeds up transitions during a top rope solo mileage outing. I've got a shunt. I have had multiple people tell me you want to avoid weighting the micro trax for that reason, and one friend even declined using my rope as a fixed line for taking photos (with a micro) when he realized it was a brand new dry treated rope, because he was going to feel so bad about it. in any case, a two strand setup might make it a bit easier to bail and rappell down I suppose. Petzl Micro Traxion) Ascenders (e. WARNING! Don’t fo In 2018, he launched the Top Rope Solo’s first e-course!!! Here is a bit of Yann’s climbing experience in solo (lead and second) El Capitan – The Shield (5. Alex Huber has put up 14- multipitch routes rope solo, ground up. The kong duck actually lists self belay as a use and the 802 says it can stop a fall factor 2. This accident was featured in the 2024 Accidents in North American Climbing. The solo version of this sees the climber’s connection to a fixed rope moving along with the climber. The rope was a litle roughened up but nothing serious. In this video, I discuss the basics of top rope solo, one of the safest and easiest forms of rope solo climbing. I use the Petzl MicroTraxion and May 23, 2022 · While having two of the same devices certainly works well (i. Top Rope Solo Pack List. The Petzl GriGri+, in top rope mode, is our preferred device. 8, A3, V) 2013, Oct 12, 2020 · We have a new device to test out! Very cool episode this week and a GIVEAWAY! I'd like to thank you all for supporting this channel and I hope this is one wa May 9, 2012 · Most of the rope soloing that I have done is with a mini-trax as the primary device, backed up with a Basic ascender below. Not sure yet if I want both devices on one rope, or one on each strand. After much testing and trialing, this is my method for top rope soloing. Jun 27, 2012 · Solo Top Rope Self Belay Advice Some progress capture pulleys and ascenders can be rigged to travel along a fixed line providing a self-belay for a solo top rope climbing experience. The micro traxion is also a perfectly fine device for rope solo. There are lots of ways to set this up and all of them are more dangerous than climbing with a buddy. It will slide down the rope, pushing the shunt ahead of it. Enhance your top rope solo climbing safety and efficiency with our Universal Top Rope Solo Neck Lanyard—professionally designed for seamless compatibility with all devices and tailored for comfort, it eliminates the DIY hassle, ensuring a perfect fit for every climber on fixed line top roping or fix-and-follow multipit 656 likes, 7 comments - avant_climbing_innovations on May 21, 2025: "This carabiner add-on is overkill in the best way possible, designed to significantly increase the safety of your primary lead rope solo device carabiner, or to orient top rope solo devices for best feeding. Goblin since it uses the same system as the USHBA and is being currently made. I often opt to top rope solo both when working out moves on a project but more commonly on easier routes for some climbing milage. two MicroTraxs), best practice is to have a primary non-toothed cam/lever type device on top paired with a toothed device as a fail-safe back-up if the primary should fail for some reason. Dropping a device when changing the system from ascent to descent. The attachment points seamed to be in perfect condition and showed no (radiating) stress or cracks. sh/wideboyz08211All your questions you asked me about rope s If you load the body of the device, it can/will just slide down the rope. ". I use camp lift top device w microtrax under it, and hold the lift up with 2 little goal zero biners i pilfered from a solar kit on an elastic cord with two knots. Dec 26, 2024 · A mere 1mm difference in rope diameter could mean the difference between a safe climb and a dangerous situation. Rappel to the bottom of the route and set up my top rope solo with two progress capture devices on one line, and backing up with alpine butterflies in the second line. I've used this system simply because these are the devices that I have, and it works pretty well. Aimed at advanced readers fluent in climbing terminology, the guide reflects my effort to balance a conversational tone with the authority and humility needed to earn the climbing community’s trust. But even the best free solo climber, pushing their limit, may find a section of the climb where success is uncertain - where a fall would mean death. 0, Revo, Eddy, Grigri 1, Grigri 2, Grigri (2019/3), Grigri Plus, Gob Check out our universal fitting neck lanyard for top rope soloing - no modifications needed to pair with your TRS devices! This is my setup for a Top-Rope Solo. The cinch proved to be very reliable, the rope never slipped enough to make the prusik grab the rope. Whether you’re an active first ascensionist or just want to do some laps after work without a partner, solo toproping is a handy Each device will provide a different balance between auto-feeding and grabbiness. There is currently only one device on the market that is marketed as a lead rope solo device, the El Mudo 2. The rope was a used 9. I am also looking for a device for top rope solo and of the many methods what device is seen as the most effective and versatile. Feb 27, 2021 · I've tried a bunch of different things. ” ~ Carl Tomblin. Single rope with both devices one single rope - one on belay loop the other on a sling around both shoulders, double rope with a device on each. Device failure: improper attachment, disabling of the cam, or a side plate opening during use (rubbing, interference from foreign objects). Some people recommend having each device on a seperate strand of rope in case of a rope failure. Originally I was looking for an USHBA basic ascender, which seems to be the best "non-teethed" device on the market for use as a top-rope solo device. Step down and the rope should pull through the device at the anchor, then slide the second device up the rope and repeat. Feb 13, 2025 · In this month’s Prescription, an expert climber made two crucial errors in her rope ascension/top-rope solo system. When top rope soloing, it is important to keep your two redundant progress capture devices separated. Connect directly to the bolt rings 1 foot below the top of the face, using slings and lockers. This will help prevent your devices from interfering with each other and reduce how far you fall. I want a main device that is safe, doesn't damage the rope, and can stop frequent TR falls I've looked at petzls pro and sport options- traction, asap, rescucender. Climb to the top of the route. Feb 10, 2011 · Bottom line: Don’t rope solo. Discontinued. FAR better to use "frame loaded" devices for TR solo rope grab: the Traxions, Rescucender, Petzl or Ushba Basic and the like. Feb 21, 2017 · Finding one of these has become very hard in the last year. Sep 15, 2021 · abandon moderation wrote: Rock Exotica Silent Partner. This is one reason conventional fall-arrest devices haven’t become hugely popular for top rope soloing. Aug 21, 2020 · Rope Solo im Toprope. 9 and it was anchored off at the middle. Bomber multidirectional anchor at the bottom of a pitch, feed rope out and place gear as you climb, rappel down to clean and ascend the fixed rope. The top rope solo pack lists for a day out alone include the following: 2 progress capturing devices on locking carabiners with anti-cross load In this video I do a first ascent of an undeveloped crag with a top rope solo setup. It works so well that people ask me what device I’m using when I TRS at busy crags. Rope suspended slightlty above ground and preferrably on an express sling attached to lower part of wall with a friend\cam. Trango Passport) Fall arrest devices (e. 0, El Mudo 3. I bought some cheap elastic cord and use that to keep the primary device elevated. Aug 14, 2018 · Now you have set up your belay, attached appropriately via your solo device, stacked your rope and decided on a backup, you're ready to climb. These skills are outside the scope of this article. Everest Pocket Rocks Top Rope Solo Trango Vergo adjusting adjusting difficulty. In unserem Beitrag zeigen wir dir vorerst nur die Technik, wie ihr euch beim Toprope-Klettern selbst sichern könnt. A. Ultimate TRS feed set-up details: Falls closer to anchor with any slack in the system will be more jarring etc than any top rope or lead fall. 11. 0, which seems like it is hard to get ahold of currently. It also showed no signs of a cut sheath or flat spots. Hmm. However, since it is not being made anymore I am looking at the C. Jan 5, 2022 · There are also one or more holes at the bottom which allow the attachment to the climber or other devices like aid ladders or pulleys. My current setup is a trango cinch in the belay loop and a prusik on top of it as backup. What is Top Rope Soloing? In this video we go over the top rope solo system that professional big wall climber Jordan Cannon uses. Lukasz Dudek sent a wildly overhanging 14b multipitch in the alps LRS style. Any significant rope slippage can shock-load the ascender and drop you lower on the route. g. You can use this technique to lead or top rope belay. I look forward to community feedback. Ideally, use different devices: There is a risk of 2 identical devices having the same failure mode. I’m impressed by the safety features, both the 35-lb break limit and the rigid rubber covering on the pass through loop to prevent the cord from jamming the device. Aug 25, 2022 · For hauling, I like to use a 6mm static tag line to keep weight low, and foot-haul the pack with this simple system (fig. May 26, 2024 · This is not a cheap setup, but is very convenient because both devices can be installed/removed from the rope without taking them off my harness. Not really, I guess there could potentially be, but with the way it locks and how the rope is running it shouldn't really be a problem. Don't have slack in your system, that can damage the rope with either device. We prefer to use the grabbiest possible device that we can still coax into auto-feeding because they will engage most reliably in a fall while allowing us to climb relatively unencumbered. As a backup to the belay loop that the oval was connected to, I had a quick draw connected from a leg loop to the oval biner (big mistake). Feb 13, 2021 · A guide on how to Top Rope Solo, the way that I do. Also, if the system is used properly (no slack build up), the toothed device won't damage your rope - the teeth are only used to initiate the engagement of the cam. I use two strands of rope fo I forgot to link to the Petzl article Jul 12, 2023 · The rope was pinched rather hard and the device opened a little whis was no problem. I personally feel that never having to take either device off my harness increases my margin of safety. Solo Top Roping is a great way to get a lot of laps in and have a positive training day when you can’t find a partner, or are just looking for some solitude. If rope has chance of abrading over edges you can setup intermediate anchor below that feature using a clove hitch to a draw before that feature with rope above loose/will be unweighed untill unclipping the clove. Mar 2, 2023 · This climbing device is like no other. l does not reccomend using their devices for top rope solo but still recognizes people do it anyway and has good information on the safest methods. Rope loss: do not detach yourself completely from the rope while performing maneuvers, a slight overhang can pendulum the rope out of reach. Neither device is recommended by Petzl though for this. However, there are some that still will work well for soloing. 9. Jan 20, 2014 · When Tommy Caldwell or Mayan Smith-Gobat work a free climb high on El Capitan, the crux may be finding a belayer willing to put in days of duty in an isolated and exposed location. Not so the other way around. Dual rope strands: Many gear manufacturers, including Petzl, reccomend 2 strands of rope. fmck:. It is a shame the Soloist and the Silent Partner are no longer in production. You can make one at home with some shock cord. I've always used an elastic necklace clipped to the top device's locker. Jun 23, 2020 · Sam Skovgaard wrote: Toothed devices do not chew up your rope. Our team field tested all of these products, climbing big walls in Yosemite and Zion, using them for rescue training on glaciers, and as top-rope solo devices at crags. P. Mar 6, 2025 · The result consolidates best practices and clearly outlines known risks associated with these devices. Often, the solution is to go alone, rehearsing the key pitches by solo toproping. Pretty eye-opening, right? Picking the best top rope solo diameter goes way beyond grabbing any rope that fits through your device. If I can tie off the rope at the top anchor I've also used a gri gri for a single rope. Sep 19, 2022 · That’s perfect for conventional belay devices; not so great for top rope solo device. Best, Jonathan. Please either post here or contact me with any questions. Goblin) The most popular device for top rope solo is probably the Micro Traxion. Any form of solo climbing is quite advanced a Oct 10, 2020 · In reply to. Saftey considerations: The lever of a gri gri is on the left side of the device therefore the grigri must be on the left side of your tie-in figure 8 knot. She fortunately escaped with relatively minor injuries. ---- Rope removal ---- 10. The shunt and ascender were never designed for top rope solo or lead rope solo, one of the best bit of kit I've seen on the market so far that works really well for top rope solo is the Taz Love 2 and 3 as they are rated for progress capture Rope soloing is a technique where you belay yourself instead of being belayed by your partner. But the El Mudo is there for some climbe Progress capture devices that don't use teeth can still compress the core, causing damage that's much harder to notice than a damaged sheath. More complicated techniques are needed to solo an overnight alpine route or aid-solo a big wall. I personally prefer having stretchy cord here. These holes allow the hand ascender to function in a few different ways as a rope grab in a hauling setup, which can be particularly helpful for rescue situations or when someone or something needs to be attached to a fixed line temporarily, such as when The first 1,000 people to use this link will get a 1 month free trial of Skillshare: https://skl. Pete Whittaker sent the Freerider in a day, rope solo style. Apr 23, 2023 · In reply to. A supposed run of a set amount, like several hundred, is rumored to be in the works, if the demand is high enough. The Rescucender is a perfectly fine device for rope solo. See full list on blog. 12 votes, 17 comments. Feb 3, 2022 · The arrows indicate the top of the pitch; (photo/Christian Black) Once the climber reaches the top of the pitch, the next step is to fix the rope and rappel the pitch to untie the bottom anchor. The best and simplist method for top rope self belay BY FAR is to tie in on one end of the top rope and thread the other end through a grigri. I guess they couldn't sell enough of them. Check out the Petzl ASAP, a well-regarded fall arrest device: Solo Belay Devices “It don’t gotta be fun to be fun. Explorer-Jason:. May 21, 2024 · This comprehensive review compares 13 of today's top options, offering you expert advice on which one is best for different situations. It is a great pleasure to share our knowledge on Lead Rope Solo with all of you. 1). To haul, put another small ascender/PCD on the rope, clip a sling to it and use it as a foot stirrup. Connect each device with the DMM locksafe ceros, hands down best anti crossload biner out there (prevents flipping of biner AND flipping device). The process is simple; as you climb the rope feeds out from your bag (your spare rope), through your self-feeding solo device, and creates 'climbing rope' for you to progress upwards. e. But that’s kind of a weird context, most hardcore alpinists just free solo and carry a rope with them for retreating and rappelling when going solo. Only the basic technique is described here. Oct 15, 2021 · Normal top roping involves a climber ascending while secured with a tie-in knot (the climber’s connection to the rope) to one end of the rope while a belayer and a belay device manage the rope’s slack. It seems like Alex is likely a predecessor to Fabian in a similar GriGri1 with multiple cache loops method. I am thinking about starting to top rope soloing on one of my projects, and I see so many opinions on the best way to do this… Jun 18, 2020 · Gstring Climbing Grips Grigri lead rope solo Grigri hack Gstring Classics Gstring PROs RipCord RollBar adjusting difficulty hangboard lead rope-solo strength training 3D-Sling Chalkbag Chris Webb Parsons Gallows Gstring PRO Hanchor Lead Rope Solo Mt. C. Entsprechend müsst ihr entweder eine Route wählen, bei der ihr zu Fuss den Stand (Umlenker) erreicht oder in der euch eine Person (Familienmitglied, Drittperson im Klettergarten) beim ersten Go im Vorstieg zum Einrichten einmal sichert. The best way to do this is with a stretchy neck lanyard. com May 14, 2022 · Most so-called “top rope self-belay devices” are actually designed as one of the following: Rope grabs and rope clamps (e. I'd suggest testing the set-up at home (or on autobelay at your gym if they'll let you, or with a TR backup or something) so you can get a feel for how it works, you can pull the rope to simulate a fall and see exactly what happens with the set-up. So ask what might happen if the Grigri fails to grab. Mar 5, 2021 · The lever device can be disabled if it is the second (backup) and runs into the first device. RollnLock) Progress-capture pulleys (e. M. One device on sentral loop, one extended to chest height. The myth: "teeth are bad and will damage your rope when top rope soloing"!!! People talk about teeth, smooth and ridges ONLY dynamic drop tests, static p 2 days ago · 1 Best Rope Solo Devices In Canada Last Updated - 06/06/2025 Our rankings are cleverly generated from the algorithmic analysis of thousands of customer reviews about products, brands, merchant’s customer service levels, popularity trends, and more. Jan 14, 2023 · It's smaller, so a bit lighter and according to petzl works with ropes up to 11mm, but I've seen a few videos which claim it doesn't work very well with 10/11mm ropes especially old furry fat ones, which is probably relevant for top rope solo given it mostly seems to be done using nice reassuring thick ropes. Your climbing safety and overall performance on the wall depend on this Nov 26, 2022 · The Missing Link is the best top rope soloing arrangement I have ever used. It doesn't have to be rated for climbing or anything. I go rope soloing on a regular basis, both to session hard moves and to get a few vertical meters to gain endurance. Grigri with microtrax, grigri alone, grigri with jumar, jumar with microtrax etc etc. There are a few really good purpose built devices on the market that don't have the flaws and failure modes the old petzl kit has. Subjects include: general principles, devices-specific recommendations, suggested knots, belay anchors, self rescue and more! It includes the Vergo, NEOX, Pinch, Silent Partner, Soloist, El Mudo 2. Purchase your "Flex-Link" Anti-Crossload Protector on the Avant webstore. Read the full article on to Be sure to add weight to the bottom of the rope (like a water bottle, backpack, or rope coil) so that the devices auto-feed smoothly, and you can flow up the route unencumbered. Is there another device that can be used in place of one or is there a source that someone knows of where I can find one. Top-Rope Solo Fall | Device Jammed By Sli Dec 1, 2013 · was doing top rope laps on a short climb using my Mini Traxion. Overall the device was in usual shape and condition. Once at the top of the climb, I can disengage the cam on the MT and lower with the Taz. jeprbhd iby wppsmw ieareh agljswn esjvitq yyqxjne xxhs zxejv kqjkuphe