Climbing quickdraw use reddit. 3M subscribers in the climbing community.

Climbing quickdraw use reddit Normally the higher you are clipped in the safer you will be. Also if you are trying to clip the next quickdraw above you, you can sometimes hold on to the dogbone of your lower quickdraw and aid yourself up to clip. I always advocate learning principles rather than procedures in climbing. A rope you use on weekends will last 1-2 years. People quickly realised that the stiff wire meant these were easily lifted out by the rope if they were just clipped with a single carabiner. Honestly, the Freewires are great draws. The idea is that you clip the next bolt, haul past the hard moves by pulling on the strand of the rope going down to the belayer from the quickdraw and then continue climbing. A lot of people prefer the 17/18 cm ones as well. If you go with a partner who's done it before for your first time, I'd suggest having them lead the route first and place the draws, then you can top rope the route first to learn the moves, pull the rope, then lead it once you're comfortable. Not sure if I would say it is more common, but yeah, forgot to mention that I think a big chunk depends on what kind of climbers you have. As for price, the higher price is more than offset by how much longer they will last. no. The top of the Magic Wand features a “saddle” that holds the quickdraw in a stable position. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Right now I have been sport climbing and now how to lead and clean routes, and soon will get into 2-3 pitch of sport only climbing. Is it to reduce drag, are you doing trad and reducing the chance of pulling the gear out, is it so you can clip from lower down, or is it just what you always use. Their primary function is to connect the rope to protection, but other requirements which vary according to the type of climbing have led to the evolution of several distinct variations on the basic theme. I was looking through various sets of quickdraws and saw that some have solid gates and some wiregates. " And for climbing your max grade, the quickdraws should already be in place. As long as you're climbing pretty much straight up, it doesn't matter much either way. It partly has to do with how the quickdraw is constructed, and partly for wear after use. More often about once a week. Also, quickdraws generally have very lightweight biners, a friend and I have worn out a longer pair of QDs (we only use for anchors) in less than 6 months. It's dirty but it works. If the route is THAT hard, then the draws are getting preplaced. I'm about to buy my first set of pretty much everything needed for outdoor climbing. It's when you tie knots and use the Dyneema as a tether that can be a problem. Hope to get some answers. You shouldn't aim to use regular quickdraws for an anchor as they are too short. Generally the really hard routes are on very steep walls. Typically, the bent gate is on the side of the dogbone that is most secure, which is meant for the rope. Apr 28, 2020 · I use a mix of quick-draws and alpine draws for trad climbing. There are quite a few different techniques for clipping the rope; below we show two popular ways. i use the right, only because most draws have a rubber keeper on the rope side carabiner so it's hard to remove. Stiff dogbones. first five bolts straight up, the next two are up and to the right, then the remaining bolts straight up again. The carabiner and the dogbone. You should always have a sling just in case so you can manufacture something more appropriate if needed. i have both, but i still do this for quickdraws. I also use a prebuilt quad which we generally use when top-roping (as opposed to just lowering the leader), the larger locking biners show almost no wear. Another alpine draw only person chiming in: sport draws are reserved exclusively for sport climbing on my rack. A year or so later when I was climbing in the alpine, the extra pound mattered. The keeper (rubber thing) on the rock side can cause the draw to ride up the rope, push the gate into the top of the anchor, and then unclip itself. The diameter is often related to how you're gonna use it, but it doesn't have to be. Use non lockers for quickdraws and clipping your shoes to things. Even though most of the climbing I do is mostly crack climbing and therefore I rely heavily on cams, I still carry quickdraws. A bigger dogbone is akin to holding a jug versus holding a crimp to clip. Keylock quickdraws are snag free by default, but wiregate quickdraws aren't: snag free wiregates are more expensive. I’ve been collecting ones on sale and hopefully use it when the time comes & I find an outdoors bud! You grab the quickdraw to clip it. Some opinions about this would be great. The price goes down to about $25 for the 5 draws ($5 a draw is pretty solid! This is sport climbing 101 and it's one of many efficient and safe ways to clean. Quickdraws, which are also sometimes called extenders, are a useful item of equipment for climbing and mountaineering. 33 votes, 35 comments. If one were to insist on climbing with the quickdraws everytime, you would also have to clean the draws everytime you went down, which is a pain on routes that steep. All carabiners labeled for climbing are suitable for climbing. Alpine draws have less of a use for ice climbing because usually your lines are straighter and you usually climb with double ropes. Hello. New slings/dogbones (the nylon part) are $5-6 so replacing 15 of them should be less than $100. Product Specs. If you're gonna be climbing the route for a while on TR then use a quad. TLDR: Can you put different carabiners in a quickdraw (aka swap them out for new ones)? Hi! I'm pretty new to climbing and have only done top roping so far. This is to avoid swinging off the wall on overhangs, and to avoid any "slip" from the belayer and losing their progress on a crux or something. With rope, it really depends on how much you use it, how much abuse it takes etc. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. If it's still beyond you then rinse and repeat. If onsighting is: "climbing a route successfully at the first attempt without prior information or rehearsal on the route. But as soon as you go off to one side of the draw and you correctly have the bottom gate facing away from you, if you have the gates opposite then top gate faces youthen if the draw is being pulled sideways toward you, it'll be easier for the top biner to get hung up If you want a full set of light trad/alpine sling- and quickdraws for cheap I warmly recommend looking for sales of rack packs of light biners (CAMP NANO, Edelrid 19G etc), 60cm dyneema slings and 17cm Petzl Ange S/L or BD OZ quickdraws. You can make a perfectly safer anchor with no lockers and no opposed carabiners, but it depends on the situation. Mar 24, 2025 · Then, grab the quickdraw you assembled mentioned earlier, open the top gate, and secure it open with the trigger wire. Nearly all similar accidents with carabiners breaking are of the same cause. As others have stated, nothing wrong with some QuickDraws on a trad route (maybe a nut is placed at a crux and you aren’t worried about it walking and it makes you feel better about fall potential; maybe the route is mixed and you want to clip the bolt with a QuickDraw; maybe it’s The answer here is that there are times to use lockers and times not to use lockers. The home of Climbing on reddit. I suppose clipping a sport draw might be marginally faster than clipping an alpine draw (since the rope end of the alpine draw is sometimes cocked around at a funny angle), but it's more than made up for by the versatility of the alpine draw. com The first fall caused the quickdraw to come undone due to the climber backstepping. The DMM tests are often cited but note that there was no dynamic rope in the system in those tests. I buy slight longer than the typical quick draw length made of spectra which are not stiff. The second video, the quickdraw came undone because the climber did not choose an appropriate-length draw for that bolt. Weight doesn't matter that much in sport climbing. Where would be the most optimal place to use the 18cm draws to reduce drag? See full list on outdoorgearlab. I only set quickdraws on the anchor if I'm going to lower and someone else is going to lead. Also to get them on sale, to start. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. 8 to 10. I don't know the science behind it, just a thing I was once told. I don't necessarily use locking carabiners at a TR masterpoint. I thought a long time on which draws I wanted when I first bought some (I eventually landed with BD livewires), now I don't care at all and will use any draw my friend hands me. I’ve been TR for 2 years and feel confident now to lead. He suggested buying Alpine Quickdraws as opposed to regular quickdraws if I will eventually get into trad climbing. My bf has been climbing a long time and he does sport and trad climbing. Pretend the route wanders around a bit. The difference in set up time between a quad and 2quickdraws is negligible, and the quad is a better TR anchor. Getting quick at clipping the rope to a quickdraw can save you a lot of energy over the course of a climb and keep you well protected against a fall. Place some rope into the bottom half of the quickdraw and stick clip as you normally would. For sport climbing (especially routes at your limit), quickdraws are the way to go. Procedures will change depending on the situation, so if all you have learned is step-1 to step-n, you'll find yourself in a position where step-3 doesn't apply and you'll get stuck. How to Set Up Quickdraws for Optimal Climbing Performance Have fun and be safe my dude. Just inspect it often and learn what a bad core feels like on a rope (I'm sure somebody you climb with has an old ass rope around) With quickdraws I will split into two parts. Any climbing carabiner will hold your weight or a fall and with a fairly big safety margin. Weight: 100 grams; Gate: Solid/Solid; Dogbone lengths: 11 cm, 17 cm; We all need a hand sometimes. Buy lockers for anchor building and belay biners. The use of quickdraws with different lengths can help minimize such risks and enhance safety during climbs. I've been looking for something a little bit more convenient, as it is often annoying to use quickdraws because they are sometimes too short to easily clip into my belay loop. The need specifically for modern quickdraws, as opposed to carabiners & slings in general, came with the introduction in the 70s of small nuts, slung on wire instead of cord. " It got me thinking about the things that could happen: 16 votes, 12 comments. 1. In a trad-focused quickdraw, lightness and usability are crucial. Generally we either have multiple people who really like leading stuff (so they want it cleaned) or folk following who might not be ready for the sudden slack that comes from unclipping a draw. What is your Quickdraw length preference. In certain scenarios, the carabiner at the rope end of the quickdraw may rest on a sharp edge, posing a risk of breakage in the event of a fall. Which I do see myself headed into. e. I imagine I would bring 12 of my 11cm quickdraws and two of the 18cm. Looking for a set of quickdraws that will be suitable for sports and ice climbing. 5 for trad or sport. I have done it too a few times and it does the job. Mar 21, 2021 · All the same, we consider it decent value, and it remains the gold standard for sport climbing quickdraws. on a route two days ago, my friend lengthened a quickdraw by clipping another quickdraw to the rope side carabiner, and clipping the rope into the lower quickdraw. Off the top of my head, not really. I read to get 12 draws and a mix of different sizes. The dogbone is nice, the wire-gate action is smooth, and the rope-clipping biner is stabilized by a rubber grommet. Do the different gates make a difference while climbing? If anyone is on a tighter budget and is willing to wait for a sale on some cheap but solid quickdraws, every so often on amazon The Gear Coop puts a 5-pack of camp wire gate quickdraws on sale link. After 7 years of solid use my old spirit draws are nearing the end of their life, so its time for new life! Looking at the Petzl Spirits, Black Diamond Nitron and Dmm Alpha sport. And yes we are scared of falling. (also helps with cleaning quickdraws). Black Diamond Miniwire Quickdraw - 12cm - 53g They both cost exactly the same, and weigh pretty much the same. As you progress more into climbing, the actual draws you use will become less and less important. Use a clip stick/ dingle stick to bypass the sections which you can't climb. The other side is a bit loose on the biner, which allows it to move around a bit. 2. It’s better to have more gear than you need if you’re new to the trad game. Also i like all my quickdraws having grey or black carabiners bolt side and coloured biners ropeside but that is one of those aforementioned personal preferences. When I saw it, I thought "That is not really bad, but not optimal. Top roping is certainly not an option, because you would have obscenely massive swings. In both situations, the quickdraw coming undone were due to failures of the climber, not the hardware. I'm assuming you are using these for sport, in which case short, stiff dogbones make it easier to clip bolts. Yes. Likewise there are times when I'll put a locker onto a bolt or placement because that is a time when it is needed. But I do use two O&O. Best Trad Climbing Quickdraw: Black Diamond Oz Quickdraw. Edit: What I'm talking about is discussed in this thread . How do you onsight at your max grade? Like, has there always have to be one person who "sacrifices" himself so the other can onsight? I currently almost exclusively single pitch sport climb and have been using quickdraws to secure myself to the anchors in order to clean the route. What you will see ice climbers rack is screamer shock packs on their quickdraws which does increase their size and weight provide some degree of mental It depends why you are using a long quick draw to begin with. Make sure you know what the triangle of death is before considering to use quick draws for anchors. Clipping the Rope to a Quickdraw. force, not rope diameter. You don't want to sport climb with alpine draws. I started climbing 8 months ago and absolutely fell in love with the sport. I know here in Australia, when climbing on routes that require bolt plates, it is best to use solid gate for the bolt side. Because there can be issues with the bolt plate and the wired gate. The quickdraw does not look like it is in bad condition. One may or may not be locking. However, on these particular routes I am thinking of having something longer than -say- a 40cm (total) draw, so I guess this would not be the best solution. sometimes i didn't bring alpines, or already used them. It does lose maximum strength over time and 20 years is well past the recommended lifespan of nylon goods. For his birthday coming up, I would like to gift him some gear. I have been climbing for several years and am really starting to get into sport climbing. Ehh, lots of reasons. The BD only comes in 12cm and the alpha seems to only come in 12cm in Canada. They weigh the same, or a bit less than the previous generation of Petzl Spirit quickdraws - which are what I use for sport climbing. I would replace the nylon portion. I've seen a few people at my gym start climbing up a toproping route with a single quickdraw on their harness, and then clip that between their hard point and a lead clip in order to rest. Considering the use case being multipitch and alpine climbing, is there any reason to not just get a full rack of the longer ones? Im thinking they would likely reduce rope drag on long pitches. Most ropes are usually from around 9. I have 2 options at my store. You can share carabiners between your quickdraws and alpine draws and just swap them out depending on if you're trad climbing and sport climbing. If you use a quickdraw with one of these upside down, the draw can unclip itself from the hanger; I've had it happen a couple times. Other features are more personal preference. The rubber retainer on the rope-side biner keeps the biner from rotating. You can use a thick ass 10. Trad climbing with quickdraws is not ideal, but it works if you bring a few alpines as well for strategic extensions. For most anchors, the knots are a non issue. Carabiners are rated for use in KN, kilonewtons, i. A dogbone keeps the biners from spinning around. This definitely looks like it was nose-hooked or otherwise loaded in a weird way on the hanger. May 7, 2023 · Suppose Im headed to a route with 11 bolts. Im in the process of buying my own equipment for trad climbing so I need like 10 quickdraws, which sums up to be quite expensive. My personal recommendation is to look for a quickdraw with a solid gate bolt side and some kind of rubber fixing the rope side biner. Quick draws are lighter and less bulky and often the extension need for a piece of gear is closer to a quick draw's length rather than an alpine draw's length. Using a longer or shorter quickdraw can prevent this from happening. Carrying an extra pound or so of weight, especially when they are shittier carabiners in terms of design, really isn't worth it. You know, I have a set of Freewires, and a set of Spirits. BD draws. Plus more shit to get snagged in your screws is annoying. I am looking into getting a full rack of quickdraws and can't decide between the Petzl Anges, Djinn, or Express. . My usual standard rack for a single, decent length pitch I know little about includes 4-8 quickdraws in addition to maybe 4 alpine draws. If I do have to extend a draw I just clip two draws together. Is it a good idea to buy carabiners only, and make the "sling" out of rope and applying a proper knot? I would of course use proper rope. aqals dmjd pvbi plofih ikm ihl nktox iepo dtxz swymxnu