Ifsc bouldering start rules reddit. The IFSC publishes the competition rules in English.

Ifsc bouldering start rules reddit See full list on boulderingboss. And if you're able to dyno past the crux it's also fine. (The footholds meant for the start are taped here as well. Find events calendar, all past and future results, ranking, IFSC news, photos, videos. It all depends on their intention when setting the problem. 23 votes, 81 comments. 18, a climbers start is correct if they use the start hold or climbing surface (wall) to establish. But (according to IFSC rules) crimping the edge of a volume is fine. The boulder scoring system drastically changed though, giving 25 points for a top, 3 points for a zone and a 0. No guessing needed) 2: Most common "rule" in EU gym, at least. Bouldering competitions use a unique scoring system based on three key elements: Tops: The ultimate goal is to reach and control the final hold of a problem. Some just barely tap and are told it's fine. The rules and scoring that apply to World Cup competitors vary according to the Not sure about comp rules, but outdoors you can usually grab the rock in whatever way you choose and even use holds nobody else does. Willfully ignoring the origins of rock climbing, or trying to change it to being a purely inside sport is actually quite a depressing and sad thing. For the start, you cannot touch anything with your hands, except the marked starting holds, and the wall itself. Ifsc rules state that you can only use parts of the wall and the starting holds to setup for the start. 1 on the score. 4 Safety matting shall be used to protect each boulder: We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. 18 A competitor’s start will be judged: A) “Correct” where the competitor achieves a stable Controlled position with both hands and both feet on the Starting Holds without Controlling or Using any other Artificial Holds or Structures. If a climber is not tall enough to reach the start holds, the climber is permitted to jump up to reach them. From the rulebook: Illegal Aid means Controlling or Using any of the following: a) with the hands: i) any placements for “T-Nuts” on the Climbing Surface or any Structure; But one could argue that we also don't follow all IFSC rules when bouldering for fun. IFSC Rules 23, Page 49, 8. May 1, 2024 · Climbing Rules. Even though Briançon hasn't happened yet, I thought it might be fun to look ahead and chat about the list of registered… The official ifsc rules for bouldering have changed this year (compare to Phatnew's comment below for details), so starting 2022 this is a completely legit start. And yes we are scared of falling. 05 jun 2025. According to IFSC 2023 bouldering rules, this would be a false start. If the climb is designed in a way that you're supposed to jump to the start that's one thing. May 14, 2024 · Indoor bouldering rules. I only got into competition climbing in the past year or so. Buy some damn curtains. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Jul 29, 2022 · The IFSC holds World Cup events in three disciplines: bouldering, sport climbing or “lead,” and speed climbing. There are occasionally eliminates on very popular boulders with lots of holds or certain climbs that end up being harder or more fun without using a certain hold. It will reduce cost for athletes significantly (e. Eg in Australia, there is funding from the Australian Institute of Sport, for $4k-$35k per year, depending on the likelihood of getting a medal at the next Olympics. Mar 6, 2025 · The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) just announced several important rule changes coming to the 2025 World Cup series for both Boulder and Lead disciplines. Climbing gyms have specific rules that you should follow to make your send count. 111 votes, 39 comments. 18 clearly states non-start „structures“ are off limit Based on the 2017 IFSC rules, this situation seems pretty ambiguous. ) First time posting on Reddit and not sure if this is best as a post here, but what happens in the event of a complete tie in either IFSC World Cup bouldering or lead comps? Wasn’t easy to find in the rules doc 😅 For simplicity let’s say two athletes top all quali, semis and finals routes in a lead comp. As of today, the most tested USA Climbing athlete by USADA is Natalia Grossman. The regulations governing the sport, including those implementing these rules, may be amended more frequently as Rules and regulations. less hotel nights to pay, less time away from work/studying). In 2023, out of 3312 athletes tested, 32 are from climbing. Not volumes unless the start holds are screwed onto them, I believe. However, what we should all be saying to the climbers that follow other rulesets when they tell us we’re starting our routes incorrectly is that we’re following the bouldering guidelines set by the IFSC in 2021. la28 to host para climbing events at convention center lot in long beach 03 june 2025. Does anybody know the official rules? That's it. The timer starts once the climber’s body has completely left the ground. But the ifsc rules are written with 4 marked points of contacts in mind so I always struggle with applying their competition rules to a only handhold marked start in commercial gyms. Across the three rounds, the climbing rules are the same. I feel like everything took a turn for the worse when the Olympics wanted a flat 4 minute rule for Bouldering (which every… Hi all, I am based in the UK and like watching the IFSC World Cups in bouldering and lead climbing. Reply reply Posted by u/oan119 - 1,202 votes and 70 comments Posted by u/DidjTerminator - 1 vote and 2 comments Depends on the gym rules, you should ask the staff if you want the real answer. Ifsc doesn't distinguish between an uncontrolled sit start and an uncontrolled regular start. Schedule Official website of the International Federation of Sport Climbing. Once you have your hands on the marked holds, and your feet off the floor in a stable way (not just jumping), you've completed the start. If you do this, you could get called out for not following the proper bouldering rules! Start holds. g. 771 votes, 98 comments. If you watch the recent Pretoria African qualifiers men's boulder 3 you'll see some contention on what qualifies as an established start. After seeing past Climbing Japan Cup results, I learned a lot of cool facts today: Akiyo dominated bouldering for basically a decade. The climbers are ranked based on the number of problems solved. Here we can see both men and women's bouldering world cups. And that the volumes are part of the wall. It's the same thing as if you had to jump into a balancy start, couldn't hold the position, and dyno'd to the next hold, not controlled. Can only touch the starting holds though. Given his dominance in the IFSC competitions, I would've assumed that he would also crush the BJC as well. ----- Also, the IFSC athlete's commission explicitly stated that their #1 goal is to fight against doping. Based on the 2018 IFSC rules, you need to have "controlled the starting hand holds before using any other holds" (rule 7. So this year first result is from Hachijoi. I recently purchased Discovery plus through Amazon and am trying to watch the IFSC world cups through there. Climbers must begin each problem on designated starting holds. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. These changes go a huge way towards eliminating the absurdity of the 2020 scoring system, which we'd all predict had some bad scenarios but was put on full Worst Case Scenario display right down to the very last move of the competition, where climber B completed a final hold and thus pushed climber A from first place down to sixth--but only because a different guy was injured and didn't compete. 2. ) cost will be reduced for the Chinese federation as well. I mean, there is a history of climbing ethics that's been developed since people first started climbing/bouldering. Kicking off in Keqiao, China at the Keqiao Yangshan Climbing Center, 58 women took on the Boulder qualification where a new scoring system and athlete final quota takes its maiden outing. Maaaybe they'd start making flared cracks and finger locks but I don't know. 1 point deduction for each failed attempt to top. Individual live chats will be posted 10 minutes before the scheduled start times. Read more about the new rules here. It’s great that more people are getting the chance to experience such an amazing sport… but if that means changing the very nature of it, or ignoring the history feels very wrong. org All Rights Please help me understand the scoring of the Innsbruck male bouldering results. imho they are all disadvantageous to short climbers in ways that can't be overcome with creativity or technique. Kokoro has the best bouldering record at 4 wins. Competition climbing dates from the arrival of sport climbing in the mid-1980s, which is a type of rock climbing where the climbing protection is pre-bolted into the climbing route, so the climber does not have to worry about their safety while ascending. Most will have some funding but it may be very low. B) show the remaining Climbing Period, rounded up to whole seconds; C) provide audio signals to announce: 1) the start of the Climbing Period and Rotation Period; 2) when one minute of Climbing Period remains; and 3) the end of the Climbing Period and Rotation Period . World ranking are results from comps that happened in the past 365 days calculated together (world championship are double points). 18: He doesn't use any holds other than the starting holds. 1. These holds are marked with tape – one piece of tape per limb. If all the sudden there were hand jams everywhere, I'm not sure they'd be in high end bouldering finals anyway because they're not hard once you know the technique. Watching Live Tune-in to the IFSC homepage on April 14th for the semi-finals and finals live streaming to see how all the Bouldering stars and rising stars perform in 2018. I can't find anywhere it says you have to be (or don't have to be) in a controlled or static position on the starting holds before moving on. National Federations Quotas 2025; Olympic Games Speed rules; Rules (2024) Rules (legal blackline) @2025 ifsc-climbing. IFSC is such a BS for implementing various rules as hard and fast without thinking whatsoever. News and updates about all IFSC events will be available on the IFSC website on the Federation’s digital channels: Facebook, Instagram, LinkedIn, X, Threads, TikTok, YouTube, and exclusively for the Chinese audience, Douyin, Weibo, and Xiaohongshu. Regardless, the rules are arbitrary and it only matters that you follow the ones that are applicable to the route you're climbing Sure. That's not true though. 375K subscribers in the bouldering community. Climbers must demonstrate control with both hands for the top to be valid. Posted by u/kolraisins - 18 votes and 24 comments Apr 18, 2025 · A new IFSC Boulder World Cup season brings with it new rules and quotas, and also new names to the women’s semi-final list. Given that you're (I assume) not taking part in high level competitions: whatever you feel ok with. These new rules include alterations to the number of semi-final and final spots, modifications to running orders, and a new scoring system. During the climb you can use anything you can find, except: The floor The top of the wall The full IFSC World Cup Series 2025 calendar can be found here. At my gym the setters follow the rule that you can only use a volume if there is a hold on it from your specific problem. com Of course, there are a few other ways around the world you can start a bouldering problem different from the rules set by the IFSC. So with that definition, if the volume your talking about is just part of the wall, you can use it to setup in the start. If some of the same people are working behind the scenes at both events (officials, routesetters, personnel, broadcasting teams, catering etc. ifsc climbing world cup prague 2025: facts and stats. that Ai Mori can top that semis W3 doesn't Ask the people who set the problems. Flair up! ** Please make sure to use SPOILER TAGS labeled with the round in this thread, then comment away in the individual live chats and post-game threads. It does not seem to follow the IFSC rules. According to section 8. The IFSC explicitly bans them for hand usage like OP. "Climbing surface" and "structures" are defined in the glossary of the IFSC rule book. The rules on establishing control at the start seem to be somewhat interpretable and not set in stone. Every boulder problem has ‘start’ holds. Rehearsing moves like this is of course common in bouldering, but I've never seen it in an IFSC competition and have always assumed it isn't allowed. National federations which produce a translated version of the rules are invited to send a copy to the IFSC, clearly stating on the front cover that it is their official translation, so it may be posted on the IFSC 390K subscribers in the bouldering community. la28. If F1 can transport billions of $ of cars and equipment around the world every week(ish), the IFSC can ship a damn set of curtains between gyms. If I find a different beta, I'll also try the intended one just for my own improvement. I used to watch them on YouTube but couldn’t always find the right videos. mewatch. International Level Athletes means, for the purposes of the IFSC Anti-Doping Rules, any competitors selected to be part of the Testing Pool and Registered Testing Pool (as these are defined within the IFSC Anti-Doping Rules) and in addition: a) any International Licence Holder competing in the Open Sport Class and ranked 15th or IFSC rules state competition problems must be started from specially marked start holds. A competitor's start will be judged: "Incorrect" where the competitor Fails to achieve a stable Controlled position with both hands and both feet on the Starting Holds; or Controls or Uses any Artificial Holds or other Structures not marked as Starting Holds before achieving a stable Controlled position Since they only taped/marked the starting holds, this is completely legal according to ifsc rules. The home of Climbing on reddit. The ifsc probably has special rules for this so that they can prevent beta breaks because the athletes are just ridiculously strong. Schedule: *Updated bouldering after postponement and rescheduling IFSC statement Then he gives it two more tries from the start (unsuccessful) before he times out. Also standing in the wall-holes (but not grabbing into them! You could injure yourself). Official IFSC Bouldering Rules 1. Heard that mentioned in the ifsc broadcasts a few times Edit: just checked the 2023 rules, section 8. World cup ranking are results from this years world cups calculated together. This upcoming weekend is the start of the IFSC Climbing Worldcup. However, nobody really cares unless you boast about the grades you can climb. Cordless and proud. I don't know them word for word but IIRC you may use the volumes but not other holds than the ones taped as start holds. Reply TimvR_ • personally I hate that women's semis W3 last hold, women's finals W1 start (I wouldn't mind it if it's not a starting position, but it's a really unnecessary difficulty for shorter climber to put it on start), and women's finals W4 toehook. 9. In the example image below, climbers would start with each hand on one of the tiny yellow holds and one foot on each of the low yellow sloping Scoring for lead climbing has stayed pretty much the same, except for denoting a + as an added 0. attention to the rules where they concern the safety of the competition and participants, both on and off the Field of Play. However, the formatting of the videos is rubbish. If you want to use IFSC rules then this is legal. At no point does it say he can't touch a hold marked with one tape with more than one limb in order to climb into the starting position. Scoring System. The IFSC publishes the competition rules in English. sg is broadcasting the sport climbing (speed, speed relay, B&L) finals live. 8. USA climbing rules say that it still must be a static start, but you only need one hand per box, so you could have a one hand start as long as you establish control once off the ground. IFSC rules, like in world cups, dictate an amount of limbs that must be on each hold with tic marks of tape. Also some people start from lazy couch person to trying to climb, me included so everyone starts somewhere so you can go suck a fat one for calling someone lazy for having tight hips Reply reply egh, it's not so much new as rare in hard bouldering, and indoors especially. "oh you accidentally touched an advertising poster on a wall? Stop climbing" "oh, your shoes accidentally touched a bolt, even though it's not giving assistance whatsover? By IFSC competition rules: holes in holds or volumes On, in the wall itself Off. They may not use other holds or structures (volumes). You can only put your hands on the marked start holds. . ** Post-game thread. 1: IFSC competition rules. CHANGES TO THE RULES The IFSC plans to publish the competition rules in stable form on a quadrennial basis. I don't even like comp climbing or really watch it much (maybe 1-2x a year) but that is some bullshit. Online streaming will most likely be region-locked so you may need VPN if you are not in one of these countries. Safety 8. tzqbal jifvs yyqf nksxch ykskrad fpxguw dgquca qcloilh mjjg dxib