Sliding x vs quad anchor reddit. jg
61 votes, 22 comments.
Sliding x vs quad anchor reddit. The document has moved here.
Sliding x vs quad anchor reddit A knotted sling will still hold 15+ kN. The document has moved here. 16K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. So my partner and I were going over our gear and we were talking about building anchors, and the point came up about locking… Jan 1, 2015 · When you need an anchor that allows for a change of direction in the climb, while remaining equalized. YY Vertical 1. Lattice Mini Bar. Crypto Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 1 vote and 23 comments Agreed. Setting up anchors isn't what takes time in multipitch. Crypto I was practicing my sliding x's and wondered if there were any cons to doubling it up, as in clipping into two sliding x's. quad, sliding x, etc. 1. And, in this case, op can ditch 2 whole dogbones and non lockers, put two non lockers on the bolts (these can be lockers or just one can or niether) clip the sling (paying attention so the stitching is out of the way (I clove hitch the stitching to the The biggest standout is he does say that no amount of clever rigging can really make up for weak primary placements, which is the takeaway from the newer research as well. I've favoured 1-hand vs 2-hand portable hangboards, and leant towards designs that I think will be the most stable in terms of tilt when lifting. Like the sliding magic X, or a pre-equalized anchor with a master point, or even the equalette can be useful sometimes. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. For your personal anchor, a factor 2 fall (you're standing above where you're clipped as far as your PAS can reach then fall) can go up to 17 kN, meaning serious risk of breaking your personal anchor. 1. If you've got two carabiners, you can achieve superior equalisation much more easily by just clipping one biner to each strand of the sling or one strand of each sling if you're doubling up. 5 is a "high-tech" core, which would bring the strength up considerably. The pre-equalized will be your bread and butter because it's so fast to set up, but I've had times where I brought too short a cordellete for an ERNEST anchor so 1. 19K subscribers in the Slackline community. These are the products I think seem to be the best options on the market right now. An additional and in my opinion slightly better anchor for 2 bolts is the quad. Digit V-Mobs. See full list on rei. com The sliding x with limiter knots allows for equalization, while the figure 8 anchor is pre equalized when you can accurately judge where the second climber is coming up from, as long as the route doesn’t wander. Quads and Fixed Leg Systems. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. A place for discussion, debate, and inspiration regarding traditional climbing, often referred to as… 13 votes, 13 comments. I can set up a fully equalized dynamic anchor that fails at over 22kn (according to Black Diamond's lab) in under a minute. Posted by u/sodathief - No votes and 11 comments Alpine draw (single or double depending on bolt anchor spacing), clip bolts and extend sling, sliding X with a locker. Derek DeBruin . The home of Climbing on reddit. Clip the sling into two bolts. 2 quickdraws are fine as a very short term anchor, like if you are rapping a multipitch or flying up an easy sport climb and swapping leads. the reason you want to have the middle loops a decent size is so your anchor equalizes and by shortening the distance between the knots you shorten the direction of pull degrees Business, Economics, and Finance. Moved Permanently. It makes up for the short comings of each system, while incorporating their strengths to produce a more SRENE anchor. In this episode, Mike goes over three examples of a sliding X anchor using Dyneema slings. Crypto 1. Oct 7, 2016 · I prefer master point anchors because they are much quicker to tie than a quad. However, with those materials, when they're knotted they lose 50% of their strength, vs 20-30% for nylon. 5mm is an acceptable cord for anchor building, the strength and numbers just isn't there. For a more long term anchor you want locking biners and multiple points for tieing people in, hanging gear/rope, and general versatility. Rather than using a sliding X or a Quad I would tie an overhand knot at the masterpoint. They prevent the anchor from a large extension if one of the anchor points fail. To my knowledge, no one make 5. The only place o can see their functionality is in multipitch sport where you want a sound anchor to hang and belay off of. This can be solved by adding "limiter knots" approximately 6" from either side of the sliding X's main point. That anchor is fine. Business, Economics, and Finance. The downside to the sliding X is that it is not as strong as a quad (a single dyneema is significantly weakened when knotted), and it doesn’t self Posted by u/trollhawk - 2 votes and 23 comments A sliding X with limiter knots is fine. Welcome to /r/slackline! Post pictures, stories, new locations, beginner guides… 15 votes, 64 comments. This anchor utilizes the "Sliding X" and knots on either side to eliminate extensions. e. Digit Mini Yubi. "We did a lot of testing with Sterling and found that binding was a bigger factor than first suspected, especially with sliding X, where a sling is basically hitched around the biner, less so on somethng like a quad, where anchor point biners are clipped though a comparatively wide loop. I like to use a cordalette and build an anchor with 3-4 pieces and a big pre-equalized master point. However, a quad makes sense to some people when every anchor is bolted, because you can pre-tie the quad and leave it tied all day. There is a way to set you anchor after a lead as a quad anchor and then use the quad as a tether when you clean, but this can sometimes lead to difficult positions compared to a traditional Personal anchor system. You MIGHT run into odd scenarios where you can't use the quad just because of positioning or whatever. Sometimes the routes wanders left and right a lot and you would want something self equalizing, like a sliding X with limiter knots. We did a lot of testing with Sterling and found that binding was a bigger factor than first suspected, especially with sliding X, where a sling is basically hitched around the biner, less so on somethng like a quad, where anchor point biners are clipped though a comparatively wide loop. Then set up a sliding x with a sling to belay from. But as with everything anchor-related, it depends. After reading this article, I am seriously thinking about changing to the Quad anchor, Moved Permanently. A relatively common debate among certain segments of recreational climbers, both in-person and online, is the value of sliding rigging systems for climbing anchors. Or maybe the short length of the quickdraws cause your rope to rub against the rock in a bad way. I don't believe that 5. Climb safe! 24 votes, 10 comments. Would be fine for two bomber bolts (nothing else) but save yourself untying the knots after they’re weighted and just use the sliding x, or better yet two draws. Using the quad as a cookie-cutter solution to anchoring is a classic example of failing to understand the relative sources of risk in climbing. BFC Grippul 2. You can use opposing quick draws or sliding-x with a locker at the mastermind if it's a quick follow on single pitch. One of the criticisms of the cordalette is after you've tied the master knot, you have potentially poor equalization if you deviate from your set Moved Permanently. Pull the two loops downward between the bolts and in the intended direction of pull (direction of the climber). A rope is going to reduce pretty much any fall to 5-7 kN. Do any of you guys double… "We did a lot of testing with Sterling and found that binding was a bigger factor than first suspected, especially with sliding X, where a sling is basically hitched around the biner, less so on somethng like a quad, where anchor point biners are clipped though a comparatively wide loopMost of the elaborate rigging systems are of little use Looks like a variation of an tirolian anchor, which I use quite often on non bomber anchors, but with a 6mm aramid cord. the Sliding-X and Quad). A sliding X rigged from a single 60 cm will have just as much reach as a quad build from a 120 cm sling, and a sliding X 120cm will give you more reach than any of the previously mentioned options. And yes we are scared of falling. As for a TR anchor, I'd worry with the use of non locking carabiners. Research conducted and compiled by Thomas Evans shows that with static loads, LD anchors (LD= load distributing, AKA “self-equalizing” anchors) don’t distribute the load equally between legs. And of course it's up to judgment when to use each both. jg 61 votes, 22 comments. If you're looking for a do it all, super safe sport/top rope anchor, then go for the quad anchor. Step By Step Guide To Set Up Top Rope Anchors With Sliding X . Hi all, So me and my partners are about to head on our first major multipitch adventure--El Potrero Chico!--and I'm sifting through some approaches… Apr 13, 2017 · The equalette is the evolution and combination of the cordalette and sliding-x. I have been using the "sliding X" and "equalette" anchor systems but am looking to invest in a cordelette to build a quad anchor with for extended periods of top roping. It's dealing with the rope, especially if you aren't switching leads. Sporto anchor in a can. For gear anchors, the quad will be tricky as you usually have 3 pieces in your anchor (meaning you have to tie two pieces of protection together to end up with two clip-in points for your quad). The sliding X had been shown to not dynamically equalize since sometime in the 1980s. Jun 22, 2021 · A few recent threads have restarted the conversation about extension, shock loading, etc. I have included 2 Overhand Knots in this method to act as limiter knots. I usually use a few draws at the top for sport but a pre tied quad is very fast. If you have any recommendations for any other types of sliding X a The sliding-X is designed to provide dynamic equalisation between a pair of redundant anchors with a single carabiner. When I climb multi-pitch with bolted anchors, like in Squamish (on some routes) and elsewhere, I use the tied sliding x exclusively, and pre-tie the anchor. Contrary to the sliding-X method, this method is more complex to make. There are plenty of cases where a bolted anchor is designed to be anchored with two draws in opposition (most sport anchors) but not all are, and in those cases you need to have some understanding of what is necessary for an anchor to be safe. Lattice Quad Block. In my own climbing, I rarely get to use bolted anchors (barring the local crags) so I build anchors off of trees, boulders, and/or gear. It really doesn't work IRL due to clutch effect (except maybe with a slippery quad and anodized carabiners). Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - No votes and 19 comments The older style of belaying off the harness has the leader clipping a piece of the anchor to protect against a factor 2 fall, which could be near the maximum impact force of the rope (8-9kN), means that the clipped piece of the anchor is acting as a 2:1 pulley and can actually feel more force (1 & 2/3 maximum impact force due to frictional The sliding X anchor does not satisfy the No Extension part of the SERENE anchor test. Here, you need to double your cordellete so that it has four equal strands of length. It’s also worth noting that anchor sides with two legs will behave as stationary anchors and will not adjust to changes in direction of pull. Jul 11, 2016 · BoulderCharles wrote:The quad is great for bolted belays as it is fast, allows for some movement of the master point, and gives you more room in the master point. You should always make the best anchor you can with what you have. 2021 . This is a fantastic choice at the summit of a sports climb where there are two bolts side by side. The Quad is my preferred TR anchor personally as it's super fast, bomber and you can carry it premade from route to route but it's all personal preference and as long as you are using SERENE/ERNEST you should be fine. This is a s elf-equalization anchor. This has generally been sufficient for the multi-pitch routes I've done. It doesn't self equalise, however this is not a big deal as you just set it up to take load in the appropriate direction (take both strands, pull in direction you will load the knot, pinch 4-6 inches above the knot and then tie it). I also don't have any sport draws, so it works out. GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best Buy Novavax SpaceX Tesla. I was taught to clip personal anchor into one or both of the bolts (or clove hitch for second if it works better). Some of the anchors in your photos are absolutely overly complicated. Using the Sliding X without limiter knots is no The Quad Is Awesome/Terrible: Examining the Applicability of Sliding Anchor Rigging Methods . This setup is only for 2 anchor points. Thread the cord directly trough the pitons/what ever and in case one blows, the knot might slip(and even absorb energy while doing so), but the chance of the piece pulling through the knot is quite low. The sliding-X is useful for: - Equalizing two pieces of trad gear as part of a more complicated anchor - Equalizing two pieces of lead protection- Equalizing a two-bolt anchor for top roping And, contrary to popular belief, neither are “self-equalizing” anchors (e. In this case, I would make an anchor with slings to extend it. 26 votes, 28 comments. Make sure the second knows how to safely clean your anchor and transition to the permanent anchor BEFORE they leave the ground. Oct 22, 2017 · Any issues with using a (nylon or dyneema) double-length sling (sliding x with limiters) for a two-bolt anchor, either on TR (where there's no issue with rope or biners running over an edge, so no static line build needed)? I usually use a quad or a sliding x with limiters made from 7 mm cord, but the slings are more compact, and I'm curious. Number of Anchor Points (applies to Sliding Anchors) A sliding anchor with three points doesn’t even theoretically distribute load equally as demonstrated in the image below. Mar 13, 2016 · I've never liked the 'Pre Equalized Anchor; AKA Cord-o-lette, instead opting for a version of the two-point self-equalizing, sliding X anchor backed up with a third independent anchor using sewn spectra slings. 5mm nylon, rather 5. But yeah, sliding X's are right out :P Realistically anymore I only use dynamically-equalized anchors in a two-bolt quad at a sport crag. Feb 2, 2025 · Quad Anchor Method. . g. Yeah this isn’t really any safer than a plain sliding x because the knots aren’t limiting extension, and is actually weaker because of the knots in the material. The main point will still be able to self equalize by sliding and, should one of the two points of protection pull, the remaining point of protection Dynamic equalization is a fool's errand. Tension The Block 2. If the pieces are far from each other, I might build a mini anchor (sliding X) on 2 of the pieces w/ a double length sling to extend them a bit. The phrase "good enough" should be reserved for alpine/aid/etc. the no extension thing is not that important as you have 60m of stretchy rope out there so you are not really "shock loading" the anchor. You can use this anchor for basically anything now without having to worry each climb. There's a trade off between eliminating shock loading should one piece fail when using a cordelette, and equalization when using a Sliding X. Anyone with some reasonable climbing experience is immediately aware of how overkill the quad-anchor fervor is - especially for top-rope applications. It's just good to know different ones for different situations. ). I have been climbing for some time and am looking to add some more equipment to my slowly growing arsenal but haven't been able to find what I'm looking for online. A sliding X would provide better equalization but would also shock load you pro to at least some degree should one piece fail. IMO having a permanent cordelette quad is as important to a rack as a set of cams. I like it since it's quick, easy, uses only one draw, and is perfectly safe. I've collected some of my thoughts and comments from those threads and put them in this explainer to shed some light on the risks associated with sliding rigging systems (i. agaijnfhzvkamymsdresojcvmlgnjdmwjpynoqbvkyopbujttnfelqe